Top Gear Dreams Come True: My Journey Along Vietnam’s Iconic Coastal Road
Winding its way through misty mountains between Đà Nẵng and Huế, the Hải Vân Pass is one of Vietnam’s most iconic roads, where lush jungle, dramatic cliffs, and sweeping ocean views collide. Long admired by locals and adventurous riders, it shot to international fame after appearing in the Top Gear Vietnam Special, where it was famously described as one of the greatest coastal roads in the world.
That iconic Special first aired at the end of 2008 and followed hosts Jeremy Clarkson, Richard Hammond, and James May as they attempted an epic journey of about 1,000 miles across Vietnam on motorbikes. Starting in Hồ Chí Minh City and finishing at a floating bar in Hạ Long Bay all within eight days. Ever since first watching that episode, riding the Hải Vân Pass had been high on my personal bucket list. A symbol of freedom, adventure, and the romance of the open road. Staying in Đà Nẵng on my trip to Vietnam finally gave me the opportunity to turn that dream into reality and experience the road first hand.
Stretching for roughly 20 kilometres along Vietnam’s central coast, the Hải Vân Pass has long served as a natural boundary between regions and climates, as well as a vital transport route through the mountains. Historically, its steep gradients and sharp bends made it both challenging and slow, often shrouded in cloud and earning its name, which translates to “Ocean Cloud Pass.” In recent years, however, the opening of the Hải Vân Tunnel has diverted most heavy traffic away from the old road, transforming the pass itself into a quieter, more relaxed route. What was once a demanding artery of commerce has evolved into a scenic haven for travellers, photographers, and motorbike riders, preserving its character while allowing visitors to enjoy it at a gentler pace.
We set off on our hired bike towards the cloud wrapped mountains, the sun breaking through parts in shafts of light that made the whole scene feel cinematic. The Đà Nẵng side of the pass showed clear signs of ongoing development, with dusty stretches of road to navigate before the traffic thinned and the throttle could finally be opened. As we climbed higher, the noise and bustle fell away, replaced by sweeping bends and cooler air. It didn’t take long for ‘Paint It, Black’ by The Rolling Stones to start playing in my head, and there I was overtaking the odd slower lorry with a huge smile on my face. It felt surreal. What a feeling, what a truly amazing place. The views were nothing short of incredible, and we eventually pulled over at a perfect lookout on the northern side, sipping fresh coconuts while taking it all in.
Once we reached the other side of the pass, I couldn’t help thinking back to one of the most memorable moments from that Top Gear special, certainly for me anyway. Jeremy Clarkson stood on the northern side overlooking the Hải Vân Bridge, using the entire scene to sum up Vietnam itself. In his words he said…
“That image really is a metaphor for Vietnam. The mountains, the coastline, the BIG new engineering projects, and the traditional fishing scene down here; with that soundtrack. It is a fabulous country, it really is.”
It struck me how perfect that description was when seeing it with my own eyes. Standing there in person 17 years on, with that very same coastline stretching out beneath us and the same soundtrack of chugging fishing boats, it was easy to understand why he called it a fabulous country. In my words, i’d say remarkable.
We spent some time on that northern side and stumbled upon a small, local fish restaurant. We sat down, cracked open a beer, and kicked our feet up while deciding what to eat. Red snapper was the choice, and soon I was led to the tanks to pick the fish myself. As it was scooped out and carried away, I hurried back to Annie, eager to share what I had just witnessed. It felt raw, authentic, and unmistakably local. The kind of experience you lack greatly in tourist spots. Places like this aren’t just about the food; they’re a window into daily life, a chance to see how people really live. Fifteen minutes later, a perfectly cooked fish arrived at our table, and we sat back to soak it all in. The flavours, the surroundings, and the atmosphere of the place.
Reluctantly we knew we’d eventually have to head back over the pass, but before that, we wanted to see if there was anything else to explore. We rode around the lake of Vũng An Cư on our way to a spot intriguingly called “The Secret Waterfall.” I’ll never forget overtaking two friendly kids waving on push bikes and thinking they were probably on their way to see friends. After taking a left and heading off-road for a while, we ended up at a river crossing where we could go no further. We parked the bike and prepared to wade through the water. Normally I’d have taken my shoes and socks off first, but in that moment, I just jumped straight in. It was perfect for cooling my feet.
After climbing a little way up the hill, we quickly realized that recent flooding had clearly affected the area. The floor of what were just shacks was heavily silted, a sight that’s hard to describe but fascinating to witness. Deciding not to venture further, we moved closer to the river for a proper dip. A few local boys were already playing and jumping in the water, and we eventually went over and spoke with them. Very polite and well-mannered, they practiced their English with us, and we shook hands and wished them a good day. When we returned to the bike, the two push bikes we had passed earlier were right beside us. It was clear then that they had been heading to meet their friends in the river for some fun. Moments like that, a glimpse into local life and people living their version of normal made the detour unforgettable.
All screenshots from Top Gear are © BBC. They are used here for commentary and comparison purposes only and are not claimed as my own. This use is intended to fall under fair use.